When it comes to sun exposure, what you don't know CAN hurt you!

The good advice about staying out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., as well as wearing sunscreen, are pretty well known. Doctors at the Mayo Clinic, however, say there's more to sun protection than that.

• The ultraviolet rays of the sun can bounce off water, sand, ice, snow and other reflective surfaces. A wide-brimmed hat can protect your head, but your face and neck are still at risk from reflected ultraviolet rays.
• The color of your clothes affects the absorption of the sun's rays. Darker clothes absorb the UV rays. Tightly woven fabrics such as denim give better protection than knits, which allow the sun's rays to seep through between the threads.
• Whether your sunglasses are dark or not, they won't stop ultraviolet rays unless the manufacturer's label says they will. They should block 99 percent to 100 percent of all ultraviolet light.
• Having a dark skin color does not protect you from skin cancer. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends that people of all skin colors take precautions against sun exposure.
• About 90 percent of the sun's ultraviolet rays can and will pass through the clouds. Follow sun-protection advice even when the sun isn't shining.
• Proper use of sunscreen is a tricky task. If you normally burn after 20 minutes in the sun, SPF 15 should keep you safe for 15 times that long, five hours.

But sunscreen protection weakens with time, especially on a humid day. Sweating will also weaken its protection. It's best to reapply sunscreen every few hours and right after swimming.

I have long been an advocate of using sunscreen daily.  Give me a call to find out which sunscreens I recommend for your skin type and activity level.

Skincare for the Over 40 Set

I recently found a great blog entry by Dr. Oz that really addressed skincare after 40.  Since so many of my clients (and myself!) are in that magical age bracket, I thought I'd share the article, and add my two cents :)

During our 40s, the body is undergoing profound changes, and the skin is not exempt. It is a time where dryness can exist simultaneously with acne. How unfair is that? Also, the signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration and laxity are emerging and can progress quickly through the decade. Fortunately, there are many ways to address these issues to maintain your best complexion possible.

Dry Skin: Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall, many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes and mouth. A good way to add hydration to the skin without excessive greasiness is to use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid helps to restore moisture levels to the skin as it actively attracts water.

Dull Skin: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lackluster complexion.  Using glycolic-acid-containing products, either a cleanser, toner or moisturizer, can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. Another good option for exfoliation is an at-home personal microdermabrasion device. Used once a week, it can gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin.

Acne: I have many patients in their 40s that say, “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is almost always due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. However, if there are many cysts and the skin is otherwise quite dry, a visit to the dermatologist to obtain oral medication may be required. Options include low-dose antibiotics or a medication that works to block the effect of hormones on the skin.

Wrinkles: If she hasn’t seen one already, a woman will likely see her first wrinkles in her 40s.  Genetics, sun habits, overall body health and skin-care routines all contribute to how the skin ages. During this decade, I advise patients to start paying close attention to their skin because the best time to treat the signs of aging is right at the onset.

Prescription retinoid creams can stimulate collagen to slow the signs of aging; however, people with sensitive skin can use over the counter retinol as a less intense alternative. For evolving wrinkles around the eyes and forehead, botulinum toxin (Botox or Dysport) can be used in small doses to help prevent wrinkles from getting worse while maintaining a natural look.

Not quite ready for botox? Look for creams containing the ingredient gamma amino butyric acid which helps to temporarily reduce muscle movement to improve wrinkles. Results are not as long lasting or effective as botulinum toxin, but can be used to temporarily improve fine lines and wrinkles without injections.

I have several treatments available that can put off the signs of aging.  In particular, the PCA Skin Peel and new Ultrasonic Treatments can really give your skin a new life.  Give me a call and I can customize a treatment plan for you - and have your face "Party Ready" before Christmas!

~Sandy

Coconut Water and Dry Skin

I don't know about you, but I've been hearing about Coconut Water EVERYWHERE lately!  I've heard good things anecdotally,  but hadn't seen much from reputable sources on what, if anything, coconut water can do to help with overall skin health.

To be honest, my research has provided information on both sides of the debate on the benefits of coconut water.  The biggest thing I've found in my research is that the water IS, in fact, very hydrating (similar to Gatorade, but higher in potassium), which is always a great thing for your skin.

According to NewBeaty.com, a website with really good information about all things beauty, Coconut Water can be good, but the consensus is that coconut itself is the real gem:

"Coconut water has some oils from the coconut milk that are part of the essential ingredients for a healthy skin barrier," says West Palm Beach, FL, dermatologist Kenneth R. Beer, MD. "Drinking it may help a little, but not as much as eating fresh coconut or making a face mask with it," he says. 

You can read the rest of the article here - it's short and sweet and has some good info.

As for the nutritional properties of the coconut craze, you can find some really good information here, in an article by US News about the current research and information about both the water and the oil.

At the end of the day, the most important thing for you to do for your skin is to hydrate!  Whether you drink Coconut Water, regular water or Gatorade, be sure you're drinking at least 8 glasses per day to keep those wrinkles away!

~Sandy

"Beauty Routines" for Men

None of us grew up watching our fathers dabbing moisturizing cream on their eyes or lying on the couch with tea bags on their face. But men are wising up; sales of department-store eye products for men shot up a whopping 33 percent in 2011 over 2010. Eye creams and gels for men brought in just $3.5 million in 2007. In 2011 they jumped to $5.4 million.

It makes sense. Everyone wants to look younger, though men have long avoided using anything that could appear to be unmanly. “Women go to the bathroom together and talk about lip color, but in my experience guys don’t get together for 'Monday Night Football' and talk about what eye creams they use,” Brian Boye, fashion and grooming director for Men’s Health magazine, recently told The New York Times. All that seems to be changing as skin care becomes more mainstream among men - not just 'metro-sexual' types, but across all types of men.

I have seen evidence of this in my own salon, and have been getting more calls and requests for treatments for men.  It used to be that women called for their husbands, boyfriends, or teenage sons.  Now, the tide is shifting a bit and I'm getting calls from the men themselves!  

There's a great article I found about over-the-counter skin treatments - be sure to take a look at it!  If you have any questions about your skin care regimen, or need advice on available treatments, be sure to call the salon and ask... we're happy to help!

Exfoliation - what is it and why should I do it?

I get a lot of questions from my clients about exfoliation - what it is, how to do it properly, why it's important and so on.  I thought it was time to dispel the myths and get some good information out to you!

Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means, and is important for skin health.

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the aging process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to over exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.Hence, provided that exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, it is very important to moisturize it, because dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.

Mechanical Exfoliation
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges,loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails. Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion and Micro Diamondabrasion are also considered mechanical methods of exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.  I have several great treatments available - just ask!

Exfoliation with Hair Removal

Some methods of hair removal also help exfoliate the skin.

• Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regimen.
• Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
• Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the skin washes the surface and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.

15 Secrets of Top Dermatologists

You all hear me talk about the importance of sunscreen, healthy eating and plenty of water for your skin.  But more than that, there are plenty of things you can do to help with the aging process, or to improve your skin's tone and overall health.  

Three top Dermatologists put together a list of the Top 15 things they personally do to help get that perfect skin we all want!

1.  Tea bags for puffy eyes - it's true, placing a cool object on the puffy tissue underneath your eyes helps, and teabags do just the trick!

2.  Dark circles DO respond to topical treatments - Dr. Jody Levine, M.D. recommends lightening agents like Kojic Acid, Arbutin and Retinol.

3.  You CAN tell someone's age by their hands - Most people forget about their hands.  The same anti-aging treatments you use on your face, as well as broad-spectrum sunscreen, can be used on your hands.

4.  Don't underestimate the power of eye cream - Skin around the eyes is really thin and dry, which makes the fat pads and capillaries beneath visible. Keeping it moisturized and supple with a cream hides them, making you look younger immediately.

For the full story, and the rest of the secrets, you can click here for the article on LuckyMag.com.

Botox® - Injectables

One of the most common questions I get is about Botox.  What is it?  How does it work?  Is it right for me?  How is it administered?  I found a great article on the newbeauty website that gives a good explanation of how Botox works, and answers a lot of the questions I often get. 

A relatively painless procedure, Botox injections are virtually downtime-free.  Muscle actions play a big role in aging around the eyes, as contractions lead to initial dynamic wrinkles followed by more permanent lines.  Botox is great for stopping crow's-feet and the vertical frown lines between the brows, and it prevents the muscle movement that leads to fine lines and furrows.  The treatment can also be used as an "injectable browlift" to slighly elevate the brow and eliminate horizontal lines across the forehead to help the upper face look younger and more relaxed.  Many plastic surgeons consider Botox to be an integral part of a surgical browlift, since its use before surgery can help relax the muscles and facilitate healing.


I personally have tried Botox injectables - and I'm happy to share my own personal experiences!  I loved the results, and coupled with regular facials and good skin care have really seen great results.

Click here to read the article in its entirety!