Skincare for the Over 40 Set

I recently found a great blog entry by Dr. Oz that really addressed skincare after 40.  Since so many of my clients (and myself!) are in that magical age bracket, I thought I'd share the article, and add my two cents :)

During our 40s, the body is undergoing profound changes, and the skin is not exempt. It is a time where dryness can exist simultaneously with acne. How unfair is that? Also, the signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration and laxity are emerging and can progress quickly through the decade. Fortunately, there are many ways to address these issues to maintain your best complexion possible.

Dry Skin: Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall, many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes and mouth. A good way to add hydration to the skin without excessive greasiness is to use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid helps to restore moisture levels to the skin as it actively attracts water.

Dull Skin: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lackluster complexion.  Using glycolic-acid-containing products, either a cleanser, toner or moisturizer, can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. Another good option for exfoliation is an at-home personal microdermabrasion device. Used once a week, it can gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin.

Acne: I have many patients in their 40s that say, “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is almost always due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. However, if there are many cysts and the skin is otherwise quite dry, a visit to the dermatologist to obtain oral medication may be required. Options include low-dose antibiotics or a medication that works to block the effect of hormones on the skin.

Wrinkles: If she hasn’t seen one already, a woman will likely see her first wrinkles in her 40s.  Genetics, sun habits, overall body health and skin-care routines all contribute to how the skin ages. During this decade, I advise patients to start paying close attention to their skin because the best time to treat the signs of aging is right at the onset.

Prescription retinoid creams can stimulate collagen to slow the signs of aging; however, people with sensitive skin can use over the counter retinol as a less intense alternative. For evolving wrinkles around the eyes and forehead, botulinum toxin (Botox or Dysport) can be used in small doses to help prevent wrinkles from getting worse while maintaining a natural look.

Not quite ready for botox? Look for creams containing the ingredient gamma amino butyric acid which helps to temporarily reduce muscle movement to improve wrinkles. Results are not as long lasting or effective as botulinum toxin, but can be used to temporarily improve fine lines and wrinkles without injections.

I have several treatments available that can put off the signs of aging.  In particular, the PCA Skin Peel and new Ultrasonic Treatments can really give your skin a new life.  Give me a call and I can customize a treatment plan for you - and have your face "Party Ready" before Christmas!

~Sandy

Exfoliation - what is it and why should I do it?

I get a lot of questions from my clients about exfoliation - what it is, how to do it properly, why it's important and so on.  I thought it was time to dispel the myths and get some good information out to you!

Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means, and is important for skin health.

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the aging process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to over exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.Hence, provided that exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, it is very important to moisturize it, because dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.

Mechanical Exfoliation
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges,loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails. Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion and Micro Diamondabrasion are also considered mechanical methods of exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.  I have several great treatments available - just ask!

Exfoliation with Hair Removal

Some methods of hair removal also help exfoliate the skin.

• Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regimen.
• Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
• Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the skin washes the surface and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.