Skincare for the Over 40 Set

I recently found a great blog entry by Dr. Oz that really addressed skincare after 40.  Since so many of my clients (and myself!) are in that magical age bracket, I thought I'd share the article, and add my two cents :)

During our 40s, the body is undergoing profound changes, and the skin is not exempt. It is a time where dryness can exist simultaneously with acne. How unfair is that? Also, the signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration and laxity are emerging and can progress quickly through the decade. Fortunately, there are many ways to address these issues to maintain your best complexion possible.

Dry Skin: Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall, many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes and mouth. A good way to add hydration to the skin without excessive greasiness is to use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid helps to restore moisture levels to the skin as it actively attracts water.

Dull Skin: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lackluster complexion.  Using glycolic-acid-containing products, either a cleanser, toner or moisturizer, can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. Another good option for exfoliation is an at-home personal microdermabrasion device. Used once a week, it can gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin.

Acne: I have many patients in their 40s that say, “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is almost always due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. However, if there are many cysts and the skin is otherwise quite dry, a visit to the dermatologist to obtain oral medication may be required. Options include low-dose antibiotics or a medication that works to block the effect of hormones on the skin.

Wrinkles: If she hasn’t seen one already, a woman will likely see her first wrinkles in her 40s.  Genetics, sun habits, overall body health and skin-care routines all contribute to how the skin ages. During this decade, I advise patients to start paying close attention to their skin because the best time to treat the signs of aging is right at the onset.

Prescription retinoid creams can stimulate collagen to slow the signs of aging; however, people with sensitive skin can use over the counter retinol as a less intense alternative. For evolving wrinkles around the eyes and forehead, botulinum toxin (Botox or Dysport) can be used in small doses to help prevent wrinkles from getting worse while maintaining a natural look.

Not quite ready for botox? Look for creams containing the ingredient gamma amino butyric acid which helps to temporarily reduce muscle movement to improve wrinkles. Results are not as long lasting or effective as botulinum toxin, but can be used to temporarily improve fine lines and wrinkles without injections.

I have several treatments available that can put off the signs of aging.  In particular, the PCA Skin Peel and new Ultrasonic Treatments can really give your skin a new life.  Give me a call and I can customize a treatment plan for you - and have your face "Party Ready" before Christmas!

~Sandy

Exfoliation - what is it and why should I do it?

I get a lot of questions from my clients about exfoliation - what it is, how to do it properly, why it's important and so on.  I thought it was time to dispel the myths and get some good information out to you!

Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means, and is important for skin health.

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the aging process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to over exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.Hence, provided that exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, it is very important to moisturize it, because dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.

Mechanical Exfoliation
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges,loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails. Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion and Micro Diamondabrasion are also considered mechanical methods of exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.  I have several great treatments available - just ask!

Exfoliation with Hair Removal

Some methods of hair removal also help exfoliate the skin.

• Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regimen.
• Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
• Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the skin washes the surface and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.

How Frequently Should I Get Facials?

Recently, I read a great article on ask.com that answers the "how often" question really well.  The bottom line is that everyone should get regular facials - but you should bear in mind that your skin type and skin care goals will have a lot to do with what is best for you.  


How often you should get a facial depends on several factors -- your skin type, skin condition, skin care goals, your budget, age, even where you live. On average, getting a professional facial once a month is ideal for someone who wants to take good care of their skin. That's because the skin is a living organ, and it takes about 30 days for the cells to move up from the dermis to the surface, or epidermis, where they flatten out, die and slough off. A professional facial stimulates that exfoliation process, keeping the skin more toned and youthful-looking. Try to have a facial at least four times a year, as the season changes.

How Skin Type Affects How Often You Should Get A Facial How often you should get a facial depends on your skin type -- normal, combination, dry, or oily. If you have oily, acne-prone skin with breakouts, blackheads and clogged pores, you should get a facial every two weeks until it is cleared out and calmed down. As you skin improves, you can stretch it out longer until you're on a schedule where your skin stays relatively clean and clear.

If you have normal, combination, and dry skin, a once-a-month facial is usually fine.

How Skin Condition Affects How Often You Should Get A Facial

Skin condition is whatever the esthetician notices at the time of your facial -- dryness, dehydration, redness, blackheads, dull skin, etc. You might come more often than monthly if you have acne, a lot of blackheads or whiteheads you want to get cleared out, or if you have skin that would benefit from a series of treatments like peels, light therapy, or microdermabrasion.

Other Factors That Affect How Often You Should Get A Facial

Skin Care Goals. If you want to have your best possible skin for a lifetime, find a great esthetician early in life, get on a good skin care regime, and follow it. Not everyone puts a high priority on personal appearance.

Age. Unless they have oily skin and breakouts, younger people can usually get facials less frequently because their skin naturally generates new cell growth faster. When you're young, your biggest priority is to be on a good skin-care regime, keep the skin clear of blackheads, and have a strategy to deal with breakouts.

As you age, you might go more often and spend more on treatments that are done in a series, such as peels, light therapy, or microdermabrasion.

Budget. Income and budget affects how much money you have available for facials and skin care. Try to at least get a facial once every three months, and make the investment in quality products.

Where You Live. Urban environments have more pollution that make your skin dirtier. If you're prone to blackheads, you might need to be rigorous about your once-a-month schedule instead of stretching it out to six weeks.

Check out the full article here, and feel free to contact me any time to talk about the latest in treatments and recommendation for your specific skin care!


~Sandy

Rosacea

 Rosacea is an increasingly common condition that affects men and women alike.  While women are more likely to have this condition, it's men who have the more severe symptoms.

Symptoms include red, blotchy, sometimes "pimply" areas of the face, which is why many mistakenly refer to it as adult acne.  Most who suffer from this will notice certain things that will trigger a flare-up - alcohol, spicy foods, wind, sun exposure and more.  There's a really good article on WebMD that gives some good information about flare-up prevention and treatment.

Regular treatment by a dermatologist can help control the symptoms, as well as regular care of the face.  I have specially designed treatments that are safe to use, and can help with keeping the flare-ups at bay.  Give me a call to see how I can help!

~Sandy

Holiday Skin Stress?

This time of year, your skin can get really worked out.  Between indulging in rich foods, party treats and cocktails, your skin reacts in many (sometimes unwelcome) ways.

By paying attention to the products you're using, and keeping your sking extra moisturized, you can have a healthy holiday glow instead of a holiday drab.  I found a great article on WebMD that talks about things you can do to help - check it out, then give me a call and we'll get a super moisturizing treatments going to help too!
~Sandy

How Microdermabrasion Works

I get lots of questions about what microdermabrasion is and how it works. It's truly an amazing process, that while once only available to "Hollywood types" has crossed into the main stream.

This is a great article on microdermabrasion by Discovery Health. In it they explain the process in very easy-to-understand terms, as well as talking about the benefits:

"The idea is that if you remove or break up the stratum corneum, the body interprets that as a mild injury and rushes to replace the lost skin cells with new and healthy ones. In the first hour after treatment, this causes mild edema (swelling) and erythema (redness). Depending on the individual, these side effects can last anywhere from an hour to two days.This process has a few beneficial effects. With the stratum corneum gone, the skin's surface is improved. The healing process brings with it newer skin cells that look and feel smoother. Some of the skin's visible imperfections, like sun damage, blemishes and fine lines, are removed.

Also, without the stratum corneum acting as a barrier, medicinal creams and lotions are more effective because more of their active ingredients and moisture can find their way down to the lower layers of skin. As microdermabrasion temporarily removes some moisture from the skin, it is always followed by the application of moisturizing creams.Early studies suggest that repeated microdermabrasion treatment at regular intervals may influence the way the lower layers of skin grow, as well, removing deeper blemishes over time. Some evidence seems to indicate that the rapid loss of skin moisture may be what triggers the lower skin layers to work overtime in speeding healthy cells up to the surface."

What a great article to familarize yourself with the process! Take a look, then give me a call and schedule your session now!

5 Beauty Foods for Natural Radiance

Who knew raisins would be good for your teeth? I loved this article I found on Yahoo! Shine. It talks about several foods that are good for your skin, teeth, eyes and more. Nutrition is so often overlooked for beauty... we all know we need to watch what we eat for our insides, but knowing how much it can help us on the outside too makes it doubly important.

One thing the article doesn't mention is water. Drinking an adequate amount of water is one of the simplest, yet most underutilized anti-aging skin care techniques. Water is truly the building block of life and a constant infusion of water purifies and feeds cell tissue for optimal skin at any age.

Check out the article, then come in for a facial to get that dry winter skin ready for the holidays!

Ten Benefits of Chemical Peels

Keeping our skin healthy and glowing isn't easy, and the winter months can make it even harder. We all want to reclaim that wonderful radiant complexion we had in our youth, and one of the best ways to do that is to get a chemical peel.

If the words "chemical peel" scare you a bit, never fear! Peels are easy, and aren't nearly as terrifying as surgical options. They give you dramatic results, and have long been known as the secret to beautiful skin to many enthusiasts.

The article Ten Benefits of Chemical Peels lists ten of the many benefits of chemical peels, including repairing sun damage, acne management, smoother skin and age spot removal, among others.

I am a firm believer in utilizing chemical peels for a variety of skin conditions. I have trained extensively and use only the very best and safest products on the market. Give me a call and we can discuss which options are the best for your personal skin concern.

5 Reasons To Get a Professional Facial

The largest organ in our body is our skin which acts as a protection from the harmful invasion of foreign substances. The skin helps the body to excrete waste products. Therefore, our skin needs to be pampered and protected at all times. There are various ways that we can protect our skin from the external factors that can harm the integrity of our skin. Eating the right kind of foods, regular exercise, getting enough sleep, proper hydration, and wearing sunscreen are important ways to keep our skin healthy but having a regular facial treatment from a trusted esthetician is a very vital step towards healthy skin for both men and women.

When was the last time you invested in a professional facial treatment? A facial treatment has a lot of health benefits especially to your well-being. This offers you the chance to work with a professional skin care specialist who will analyze your skin type, help you improve all the imperfections, and show you the methods on how to care for your skin properly. Give yourself the chance to experience the treatments that cleanse, hydrate, tone, and refine your skin.

1. Regular facial treatment helps to increase the circulation in the area and stimulates the skin. Experts believe that it can help delay the premature aging process by custom-targeting your unique skin care. Facial treatments are a great way to prevent the wrinkling appearance on your face as you age. Keeping your skin properly hydrated will prevent your skin from dehydration.

2. A facial treatment can guarantee you a deep cleansing better than the type of cleansing you typically do at home. It includes cleansing, exfoliation, and hydration which can help to unclog your pores and get rid of deep seated dirt and impurities that affect the overall health and appearance of your skin.

3. A facial can help you understand the proper products specifically suited for your skin. Many people are using the wrong products for their skin type causing their skin to become sensitized. There are now so many home-party companies and over-the-counter lines out there with unqualified people recommending skincare. Only a qualified, licensed esthetician or skincare professional should recommend a home care regimen that will work best for your skin type. Skin type is determined by pore size, tone, oil production, and texture. This is an important component of starting to create a beautiful skin.

4. Facial treatments guarantee to rejuvenate your complexion. It is one of the best ways to restore your skin's natural glow. Facial treatments help get rid of dead skin cells which promotes the new growth of healthy cells. It is a cosmetic treatment of the face that includes a series of pampering methods of applying creams, lotions, masks, peels, exfoliation, steam, and massage.

5. It can lessen your stress. Almost all facial treatments can help you feel relaxed especially if it combined with massage. Experts believe that your body releases a hormone that makes you happy called endorphin when you are in your most relaxed state.

It is important in maintain the beauty and health of your skin. Everyone should find a licensed esthetician who will assess your skin care needs and provide you with the best treatment options for you to achieve the kind of skin you've been dreaming of. It is advisable to get a facial treatment every four weeks and maintain a healthy skin care regimen to delay the signs of aging and fight the damaging effects of the external environment.