Skincare for the Over 40 Set

I recently found a great blog entry by Dr. Oz that really addressed skincare after 40.  Since so many of my clients (and myself!) are in that magical age bracket, I thought I'd share the article, and add my two cents :)

During our 40s, the body is undergoing profound changes, and the skin is not exempt. It is a time where dryness can exist simultaneously with acne. How unfair is that? Also, the signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration and laxity are emerging and can progress quickly through the decade. Fortunately, there are many ways to address these issues to maintain your best complexion possible.

Dry Skin: Hormone levels start to drop long before entering menopause. During peri-menopause, as estrogen levels fall, many women first notice their skin is much drier than before. This is a common finding, but if not addressed, can lead to premature fine wrinkling around the eyes and mouth. A good way to add hydration to the skin without excessive greasiness is to use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid helps to restore moisture levels to the skin as it actively attracts water.

Dull Skin: Skin cell turnover slows down with age, leading to a dull, lackluster complexion.  Using glycolic-acid-containing products, either a cleanser, toner or moisturizer, can help remove some of the dead skin layer to reveal a healthy glow. Another good option for exfoliation is an at-home personal microdermabrasion device. Used once a week, it can gently remove the dead skin cells to restore radiant skin.

Acne: I have many patients in their 40s that say, “Why am I still getting acne when I now have wrinkles, too?” Unfortunately, acne around the mouth and jawline is quite common in our 40s and is almost always due to fluctuating hormone levels. Topical spot treatment with salicylic acid can be helpful to dry up the occasional zit. However, if there are many cysts and the skin is otherwise quite dry, a visit to the dermatologist to obtain oral medication may be required. Options include low-dose antibiotics or a medication that works to block the effect of hormones on the skin.

Wrinkles: If she hasn’t seen one already, a woman will likely see her first wrinkles in her 40s.  Genetics, sun habits, overall body health and skin-care routines all contribute to how the skin ages. During this decade, I advise patients to start paying close attention to their skin because the best time to treat the signs of aging is right at the onset.

Prescription retinoid creams can stimulate collagen to slow the signs of aging; however, people with sensitive skin can use over the counter retinol as a less intense alternative. For evolving wrinkles around the eyes and forehead, botulinum toxin (Botox or Dysport) can be used in small doses to help prevent wrinkles from getting worse while maintaining a natural look.

Not quite ready for botox? Look for creams containing the ingredient gamma amino butyric acid which helps to temporarily reduce muscle movement to improve wrinkles. Results are not as long lasting or effective as botulinum toxin, but can be used to temporarily improve fine lines and wrinkles without injections.

I have several treatments available that can put off the signs of aging.  In particular, the PCA Skin Peel and new Ultrasonic Treatments can really give your skin a new life.  Give me a call and I can customize a treatment plan for you - and have your face "Party Ready" before Christmas!

~Sandy

Coconut Water and Dry Skin

I don't know about you, but I've been hearing about Coconut Water EVERYWHERE lately!  I've heard good things anecdotally,  but hadn't seen much from reputable sources on what, if anything, coconut water can do to help with overall skin health.

To be honest, my research has provided information on both sides of the debate on the benefits of coconut water.  The biggest thing I've found in my research is that the water IS, in fact, very hydrating (similar to Gatorade, but higher in potassium), which is always a great thing for your skin.

According to NewBeaty.com, a website with really good information about all things beauty, Coconut Water can be good, but the consensus is that coconut itself is the real gem:

"Coconut water has some oils from the coconut milk that are part of the essential ingredients for a healthy skin barrier," says West Palm Beach, FL, dermatologist Kenneth R. Beer, MD. "Drinking it may help a little, but not as much as eating fresh coconut or making a face mask with it," he says. 

You can read the rest of the article here - it's short and sweet and has some good info.

As for the nutritional properties of the coconut craze, you can find some really good information here, in an article by US News about the current research and information about both the water and the oil.

At the end of the day, the most important thing for you to do for your skin is to hydrate!  Whether you drink Coconut Water, regular water or Gatorade, be sure you're drinking at least 8 glasses per day to keep those wrinkles away!

~Sandy

"Beauty Routines" for Men

None of us grew up watching our fathers dabbing moisturizing cream on their eyes or lying on the couch with tea bags on their face. But men are wising up; sales of department-store eye products for men shot up a whopping 33 percent in 2011 over 2010. Eye creams and gels for men brought in just $3.5 million in 2007. In 2011 they jumped to $5.4 million.

It makes sense. Everyone wants to look younger, though men have long avoided using anything that could appear to be unmanly. “Women go to the bathroom together and talk about lip color, but in my experience guys don’t get together for 'Monday Night Football' and talk about what eye creams they use,” Brian Boye, fashion and grooming director for Men’s Health magazine, recently told The New York Times. All that seems to be changing as skin care becomes more mainstream among men - not just 'metro-sexual' types, but across all types of men.

I have seen evidence of this in my own salon, and have been getting more calls and requests for treatments for men.  It used to be that women called for their husbands, boyfriends, or teenage sons.  Now, the tide is shifting a bit and I'm getting calls from the men themselves!  

There's a great article I found about over-the-counter skin treatments - be sure to take a look at it!  If you have any questions about your skin care regimen, or need advice on available treatments, be sure to call the salon and ask... we're happy to help!

Exfoliation - what is it and why should I do it?

I get a lot of questions from my clients about exfoliation - what it is, how to do it properly, why it's important and so on.  I thought it was time to dispel the myths and get some good information out to you!

Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means, and is important for skin health.

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the aging process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to over exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation.Hence, provided that exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, it is very important to moisturize it, because dry skin can lead to wrinkle development.

Mechanical Exfoliation
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges,loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails. Facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion and Micro Diamondabrasion are also considered mechanical methods of exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.  I have several great treatments available - just ask!

Exfoliation with Hair Removal

Some methods of hair removal also help exfoliate the skin.

• Waxing is a mechanical process which is done with the intention of plucking the hair, which also functions as a mechanical exfoliant. As this is done every two to eight weeks, it is not performed as frequently as many exfoliate, so it does not fully substitute for a regimen, but may substitute for a normal session in a regimen.
• Nair is an example of a chemical hair removal product which also functions as a chemical exfoliant. It is done more frequently than waxing (once a week rather than once a month) since it only destroys hair partially below the skin, rather than destroying the entire root as with waxing. Using it weekly can substitute for a weekly exfoliant regime. It is a very aggressive chemical and cannot be used on the face so other exfoliants would need to be used on the face.
• Wetshaving also has exfoliating properties; first, the action of moving a shaving brush vigorously across the skin washes the surface and removes dead skin at the same time. After applying the lather with a brush, the use of a double-edged safety razor or straight razor removes dead skin simply by the fact that the aforementioned razors are dragged much closer across the skin and remove dead skin more effectively than a cartridge or electric razor.

15 Secrets of Top Dermatologists

You all hear me talk about the importance of sunscreen, healthy eating and plenty of water for your skin.  But more than that, there are plenty of things you can do to help with the aging process, or to improve your skin's tone and overall health.  

Three top Dermatologists put together a list of the Top 15 things they personally do to help get that perfect skin we all want!

1.  Tea bags for puffy eyes - it's true, placing a cool object on the puffy tissue underneath your eyes helps, and teabags do just the trick!

2.  Dark circles DO respond to topical treatments - Dr. Jody Levine, M.D. recommends lightening agents like Kojic Acid, Arbutin and Retinol.

3.  You CAN tell someone's age by their hands - Most people forget about their hands.  The same anti-aging treatments you use on your face, as well as broad-spectrum sunscreen, can be used on your hands.

4.  Don't underestimate the power of eye cream - Skin around the eyes is really thin and dry, which makes the fat pads and capillaries beneath visible. Keeping it moisturized and supple with a cream hides them, making you look younger immediately.

For the full story, and the rest of the secrets, you can click here for the article on LuckyMag.com.

Botox® - Injectables

One of the most common questions I get is about Botox.  What is it?  How does it work?  Is it right for me?  How is it administered?  I found a great article on the newbeauty website that gives a good explanation of how Botox works, and answers a lot of the questions I often get. 

A relatively painless procedure, Botox injections are virtually downtime-free.  Muscle actions play a big role in aging around the eyes, as contractions lead to initial dynamic wrinkles followed by more permanent lines.  Botox is great for stopping crow's-feet and the vertical frown lines between the brows, and it prevents the muscle movement that leads to fine lines and furrows.  The treatment can also be used as an "injectable browlift" to slighly elevate the brow and eliminate horizontal lines across the forehead to help the upper face look younger and more relaxed.  Many plastic surgeons consider Botox to be an integral part of a surgical browlift, since its use before surgery can help relax the muscles and facilitate healing.


I personally have tried Botox injectables - and I'm happy to share my own personal experiences!  I loved the results, and coupled with regular facials and good skin care have really seen great results.

Click here to read the article in its entirety!

How Frequently Should I Get Facials?

Recently, I read a great article on ask.com that answers the "how often" question really well.  The bottom line is that everyone should get regular facials - but you should bear in mind that your skin type and skin care goals will have a lot to do with what is best for you.  


How often you should get a facial depends on several factors -- your skin type, skin condition, skin care goals, your budget, age, even where you live. On average, getting a professional facial once a month is ideal for someone who wants to take good care of their skin. That's because the skin is a living organ, and it takes about 30 days for the cells to move up from the dermis to the surface, or epidermis, where they flatten out, die and slough off. A professional facial stimulates that exfoliation process, keeping the skin more toned and youthful-looking. Try to have a facial at least four times a year, as the season changes.

How Skin Type Affects How Often You Should Get A Facial How often you should get a facial depends on your skin type -- normal, combination, dry, or oily. If you have oily, acne-prone skin with breakouts, blackheads and clogged pores, you should get a facial every two weeks until it is cleared out and calmed down. As you skin improves, you can stretch it out longer until you're on a schedule where your skin stays relatively clean and clear.

If you have normal, combination, and dry skin, a once-a-month facial is usually fine.

How Skin Condition Affects How Often You Should Get A Facial

Skin condition is whatever the esthetician notices at the time of your facial -- dryness, dehydration, redness, blackheads, dull skin, etc. You might come more often than monthly if you have acne, a lot of blackheads or whiteheads you want to get cleared out, or if you have skin that would benefit from a series of treatments like peels, light therapy, or microdermabrasion.

Other Factors That Affect How Often You Should Get A Facial

Skin Care Goals. If you want to have your best possible skin for a lifetime, find a great esthetician early in life, get on a good skin care regime, and follow it. Not everyone puts a high priority on personal appearance.

Age. Unless they have oily skin and breakouts, younger people can usually get facials less frequently because their skin naturally generates new cell growth faster. When you're young, your biggest priority is to be on a good skin-care regime, keep the skin clear of blackheads, and have a strategy to deal with breakouts.

As you age, you might go more often and spend more on treatments that are done in a series, such as peels, light therapy, or microdermabrasion.

Budget. Income and budget affects how much money you have available for facials and skin care. Try to at least get a facial once every three months, and make the investment in quality products.

Where You Live. Urban environments have more pollution that make your skin dirtier. If you're prone to blackheads, you might need to be rigorous about your once-a-month schedule instead of stretching it out to six weeks.

Check out the full article here, and feel free to contact me any time to talk about the latest in treatments and recommendation for your specific skin care!


~Sandy

Dramatic Rise of Skin Cancer

Even as the rates of some cancers are falling, Mayo Clinic is seeing an alarming trend: the dramatic rise of skin cancer, especially among people under 40. According to a study by Mayo Clinic researchers published in the April issue of Mayo Clinic Proceedings, the incidence of melanoma has escalated, and young women are the hardest hit.

In an article on Science Daily's website, a Mayo Clinic Dermatologist talks about the use of indoor tanning beds, sunscreen and the importance of being aware of your skin and noticing changes. 

"We anticipated we'd find rising rates, as other studies are suggesting, but we found an even higher incidence than the National Cancer Institute had reported using the Surveillance, Epidemiology and End Result database, and in particular, a dramatic rise in women in their 20s and 30s," says lead investigator Jerry Brewer, M.D., a Mayo Clinic dermatologist. Researchers conducted a population-based study using records from the Rochester Epidemiology Project, a decades-long database of all patient care in Olmsted County, Minn. They looked for first-time diagnoses of melanoma in patients 18 to 39 from 1970 to 2009. The study found the incidence of melanoma increased eightfold among young women and fourfold among young men. The lifetime risk of melanoma is higher in males than females, but the opposite is true in young adults and adolescents, Dr. Brewer says.

Take a look at the article and let me know what you think - I want all of my clients and friends to be healthy and cancer free!

5 Tips for Dry Skin Care During Menopause

Every woman in menopause knows about the infamous hot flashes. Most are familiar with the night sweats. But dry skin at menopause, too? How did thathappen?

The answer is simple: Hormones, specifically estrogen. It turns out that the same hormone behind so many of your body's changes may be responsible for dry skin problems at menopause, too.

WebMD featured an article recently about skincare for women during menopause:

To help turn dry, problem skin into smoother, fresher skin, experts offer these quick tips for women in menopause.

• Focus on smart fats: Essential fatty acids -- like the omega-3s found in salmon, walnuts, fortified eggs, or algae oils  -- help produce your skin's oil barrier, vital in keeping skin hydrated. A diet short of these body-boosting fats can leave skin dry, itchy, and prone to acne. Most of us have a diet low in omega-3s, which are also found in sardines, soy, safflower oil, and flax. 
• Smooth on that sunscreen: Keep skin healthy with "a broad spectrum sunblock with an SPF of 15 or higher," says Andrea Cambio, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in Cape Coral, Fla.

Dry skin, wrinkles, moles, and skin cancers can all result from too much sun, so add a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection to your line of defense. Aim for about an ounce to cover all sun-exposed skin.

And if you think an overcast day means you don't need sunscreen, think again. Skin-damaging ultraviolet light can penetrate clouds, fog, even snow.

• Stop those steamy showers: Piping-hot baths and showers may feel fabulous, but "hot water ... can be very harsh to the skin and dry it out miserably," Cambio tells WebMD. Stop stripping your skin of its natural oils. Take shorter showers and use warm water.
• Also, preserve those natural oils by scrubbing with soap only in the spots you really need it, Tanzi suggests, like your underarms, feet, and groin. Because your legs, back, and arms don't usually get very dirty, skip the soap and stick to a warm-water wash for these areas.
• Use a gentle soap: Scented, antibacterial, or deodorant soaps can be harsh, removing your body's essential oils, leaving skin even more itchy and dry. Instead, reach for an unscented or lightly scented bar.
• Remember to moisturize: Within a few minutes after your warm shower, smooth on your favorite moisturizer. You may favor a pricey potion from the cosmetic counter, but humbler lotions like mineral oil and petroleum jelly help trap in much-needed moisture, too.

The article had some great information about how Estrogen affects our body and our skin, as well as some great information about bone loss.  Take a look here for the full article!

~Sandy

Teaching Your Teen About Skin Care

It's never too early to help your teen learn about the best way to clean, moisturize, and protect her skin.

If we only knew then what we know now.

This expression applies to a lot of things in life, including skin care. I have spoken to many of my clients about how important it is to get our daughters thinking about skin care as early as possible.  We nag at them to brush their teeth, we pester them to eat healthy snacks, we harass them about using their manners... but many of us don't follow that trend to include skin care!  

Reminding kids that their skin is their skin for life, that the sun ages them, that moisturizing will help them throughout their adulthood is difficult to say the least.  They have little sense of the future and the effect of what they do now on their skin later in life.  

If we can treat skin care like we do teeth brushing and create a habit early, it will be one of the greatest gifts we can give them.  They may complain now, but they'll thank you later!  

WebMD has a great article about how to teach your teen about skin care and gives lots of tips about establishing a routine, using serums for acne treatment and using sunscreen.  Give it a read and let me know what you think!

~Sandy

Good Grooming is a Plus for Men

Men have found the beauty isle. It's been there for a long time, but only recently have men discovered that looking great helps them compete in the business world.

They don't have to be obsessed with their appearance to care about roughened cuticles, regular hair trims, and moisturizer to make their skin look youthful. The national beauty director for Nordstrom says looking your best is more important in our image-conscious world. It's true that they are in the business of selling products, but their ideas could give you a leg up on looking good.

* Add a face scrub to your regimen twice a week. It will slough off oil, dirt, and dead skin cells. Use it in the shower, and you'll find you get a closer shave afterward.
* Hydrate your skin with a moisturizer. Everyone needs hydration, they say, even a man with oily skin. Apply it after shaving and it will feel good.
* Use an eye cream. A great eye cream hydrates the skin around the eyes, reducing puffiness and minimizing the signs of wrinkles, which is a step toward preventing them. Use men's cream, not women's.
* Pay attention to the condition of your hands and fingernails. Have an occasional manicure and otherwise maintain finger nails.
* Invest in a good shampoo, conditioner and hair styling product.

Remember, I have several treatments available that are specifically designed for men - be sure to ask!

~Sandy

Got Chapped Lips?

The bleak, shortened days of mid-winter aren’t the only tough part about January.

This time of year, your lips are probably crying out for attention, too.

Winter air can lack moisture, making skin and lips drier than usual. Combine cold, dry air with a wicked winter wind, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for dry, chapped lips.

Yet, often, we overlook the fact that the skin on our lips is just as sensitive to the environment as any other area, even prone to skin cancer. And with cold, wintry air now the norm, you’ve got to do more than, well, just pay lip service to this neglected area.

Old standbys like Vaseline, made with petrolatum, work well as a barrier against indoor and outdoor dryness, says Dr. David E. Bank, director of The Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery in Mount Kisco. Dimethicone, an ingredient in many lip treatments, is also effective, says Bank, as is Aquaphor, an all-purpose ointment.

Estheticians prefer to use products made with protective plant oils or beeswax. Weleda Skin Food, a multitasking moisturizer that works well on the lips, contains organic pansy, chamomile and sweet almond and sunflower-seed oils, which can nourish dry skin. The company also offers Everon lip balm and Weather Protection Cream.

To get the best effect from any kind of balm or treatment, be sure your lips are moist first, ideally with a few drops of water, suggests Bank. But resist the urge to lick them.

“Obviously it brings immediate relief, because you’re adding moisture, but it’s a double whammy, because as saliva evaporates, it takes even more of the water from the lip with it,” says Bank. Even worse, he says, saliva contains digestive enzymes that work like a solvent.

“It’s better to reach for your lip balm, and if you feel you want to moisten them, reach for some water, but don’t do it by licking.”

Keep in mind that sun damage remains a threat year-round — and that while skiiers need to be extra-vigilant about skin and lip protection, so does everyone else who goes outside.

Rosacea

 Rosacea is an increasingly common condition that affects men and women alike.  While women are more likely to have this condition, it's men who have the more severe symptoms.

Symptoms include red, blotchy, sometimes "pimply" areas of the face, which is why many mistakenly refer to it as adult acne.  Most who suffer from this will notice certain things that will trigger a flare-up - alcohol, spicy foods, wind, sun exposure and more.  There's a really good article on WebMD that gives some good information about flare-up prevention and treatment.

Regular treatment by a dermatologist can help control the symptoms, as well as regular care of the face.  I have specially designed treatments that are safe to use, and can help with keeping the flare-ups at bay.  Give me a call to see how I can help!

~Sandy